A Short Guide to Vejer de la Frontera | Spain’s Magical White Town
Looking for the best things to do in Vejer de la Frontera, Spain? Or wondering if it’s worth visiting on your Andalusia road trip? Then this guide to Vejer de la Frontera should have you covered.
A magical little hilltop town of gleaming white walls and terracotta roofs, Vejer de la Frontera is a wonderful place to visit in the south of Spain.
Nestled amongst the Andalusia mountains, this historic town is one of Spain’s iconic white villages, known as the pueblos blancos. Yet compared to its attention-grabbing neighbours with their summit castles and mountainside location, Vejer de la Frontera is quietly unassuming from the outside.
Yet it is utterly dazzling inside.
A whitewashed gem, here a maze of charming, cobbled streets leads to hidden patios, breathtaking views, ancient churches, and glorious plazas. Plus, there is history are to be found around every beautiful corner. What is especially perfect is all the best things to do in Vejer de la Frontera are easily explored on foot. Happily, that includes all the wonderful cafes, tapas bars, and roof top restaurants dotted across the town.
Not only that, but the town is also a wonderful daytrip from the nearby Costa de la Luz and its incredible beach villages. We visited from laidback Los Canos de Mecca, where an easy (though steep) drive will have you in Vejer in less than 20-minutes.
So, to help you plan the perfect trip, I want to share some of the best things to do in Vejer de la Frontera once you arrive. In this guide, you’ll find all the essentials - what to do, see, and of course where to eat.
Best things to do in Vejer de la Frontera
1. Explore Vejer de la Frontera’s historic centre
No matter which Spanish town you are visiting, there’s always a centro historico (or historic centre) and visiting this is one of the best things to do in Vejer de la Frontera.
This is where you’ll find the oldest buildings, ancient churches and castles, and the most beautiful little streets. Once in Vejer, follow the cobbled alleyways towards the castle, then head along the medieval walls to the old gate, where an impressive arch that leads towards the main plaza.
Vejer de la Frontera is a compact and easily walkable town, though it’s warren of streets will have you wandering for hours! Whilst I always encourage travellers to follow their feet, there are a few historic sights you’ll want to see:
Castillo de Vejer | dating back to the 10th century, Vejer’s castle gives the most incredible views from its ramparts and is one of the best things to see in Vejer de la Frontera. Find it here.
Arco de la Puerta Cerrada | also constructed in the 10th century, this beautiful old gateway is located in what would have been the Jewish quarter of the village. This is also the best place to see Vejer’s medieval walls and it’s well worth a visit. Find it here.
Puerta de la Segur | one of the smallest gateways into Vejer’s old town, this impressive little archway leads from the new town uphill into a lovely courtyard. Despite being small, it’s one of the best things to see in Vejer de la Frontera – one of only four gates into the medieval city this was a heavily defended enclosure. Now, in summer there are frequently musical events here and a few very lovely wine bars. Find it here.
Iglesia Divino Salvador | just a few steps from Puerta de la Segur is the church of Iglesia Divino Salvador. Partly built in the 16th century, this stunning church is most likely built on top of the ruins of an old Moorish mosque, and you can see the different architectural styles. It’s well worth seeing as you explore around Vejer. Find it here.
Antiguo Iglesia | located on the narrow street that leads to the castle, Antiguo Iglesia is a beautiful church with a 16th-century Renaissance architectural style. The doorway is especially beautiful with an intricate façade and if open, you can pop in for a look around. Find it here.
2. Walk through Arcos de la Juderia
Also located in the historic centre, walking through (and photographing) Arcos de la Juderia is one of the best things to do in Vejer de la Frontera.
Famous for its spectacular views over the bright white houses of the town below, this impressive, covered alley is an absolute must-see. Once here, stop and admire the vista – it’s one of the best views of any Andalusia’s white towns. Find it here.
3. Chill with a coffee Plaza de Espana
All of the winding streets and alleys of the old town lead to the incredibly photogenic Plaza de Espana. It’s one of the best things to visit in Vejer de la Frontera, especially if you’re on the hunt for a good people watching spot.
The palm tree lined plaza itself is lined with lively cafes and is a tempting option for a pitstop. Now, this plaza is a draw for anyone visiting Vejer and its popularity is reflected in the prices. Nevertheless, Plaza de Espana makes the perfect place to sip a coffee and watch the world go by.
Once here, be sure to check out the playful ceramic frog fountain in the centre of the plaza. Find it here.
4. Have a roof top dining experience
Hidden from street view and high above Plaza de Espana is the most spectacular roof terrace of El Jardín del Califa.
Pop in for speciality coffee and pastries in the morning, or cocktails in the afternoon – you’re unlikely to find many better views in Vejer de la Frontera. Plus, if you’re looking for a unique spot for dinner, this is your place. Be sure to book well in advance for dinner in their garden restaurant. Or, if you fancy something even more unique then check out the temple dining room with its barrel-vaulted cave and stone walls.
Food wise, expect tasty Middle Eastern dishes that take inspiration from the days when Spain was under Moorish rule. Book a table here.
5. Lunch amongst the historic streets
Whilst there’s no shortage of restaurants and cafes around the plaza, we found the crowds occasionally a little too much. Often the best option for a coffee or casual lunch was in one of the eateries hidden along the smaller streets, where the views are just as lovely but the cafes less crowded.
There’s also plenty of eating options along Calle de la Corredera, a street just outside the main historical area with its incredible mirador (viewing platform).
My picks of the best places for coffee or lunch in Vejer de la Frontera are:
Caminito | serving delicious fresh wraps, empanadas, and tostadas, served in a lovely sunny spot near the historic centre. Plus the staff are incredibly friendly. Find it here.
The Singular Coffee | offers delicious coffee, lunch options, and a range of really wonderful cakes in a cute café. Situated on Calle de la Corredera you can admire panoramic countryside views from the terrace. Find it here.
6. Eat all the tapas
One thing you’ll always find in Spanish towns are plenty of tapas bars, and Vejer de la Frontera is no exception. Often the best option is to follow your feet (or tummy) to the most tempting menu. However, if you’re looking for inspiration, these are my top picks:
Califa Tapas | informal and delicious, choose from a wide variety of tapas inspired by both Spain and the Middle East. Also just outside the centre, views from the terrace are equally incredible. Find it here.
Bar El Central | this modern eatery gets extra points for its location on Vejer’s old, cobbled steps. Plus reviews for its tapas and grilled dishes are consistently excellent. Find it here.
7. Walk the windmill route
If you’re looking for an early morning or late afternoon walk, the ruta molinos de viento (or windmill route) offers up a unique viewpoint over Vejer de la Frontera.
It’s also an excellent way to see Vejer’s ancient flour mills, combined with some rather glorious countryside views. The entire route is around 9km, but you can turn off the trail at almost any point and walk back to the town centre. Sadly we didn’t have time, but you can find the route here.
8. Enjoy a drink in a taberna
The main plaza in Vejer is a wonderful place to grab an afternoon aperitif and tiny La Casa Del Vino on the corner is a brilliant little wine bar (here).
However, if you’re looking for respite from the crowds or perhaps something a little more authentically Spanish, then I recommend one of the little tabernas away from the square.
My personal favourite is 4 Bar de Copas (here), a wonderful bar which serves excellent local wine and chilled frothy beer from an old stone walled taverna. But I’d also recommend La Bodeguita just a few steps away (here) – both have a handful of outdoor tables on Vejer’s cobbled streets and views over the town’s medieval walls.
How to visit Vejer de la Frontera
Lastly, Vejer de la Frontera is a wonderful place to visit on a daytrip from either Cadiz or further along the Costa de la Luz coast, or as part of a larger Andalusia road trip. You can find out more my Pueblos Blancos Road Trip Itinerary + Costa de la Luz Guide (both coming soon).
