The Boathouse, Ulva
This trip was always going to be about food. After all, we were spending four days in the iconic home of seafood – the west coast of Scotland. However, one place stood out amongst the rest and we knew we had to go: The Boathouse on tiny island of Ulva.
From the glowing reviews to the promise of an adventure on a tiny ferry, Trev and I decided that this hidden gem was well worth a detour - and a mad rally style dash around Mull to reach the ferry in time for lunch.
We spent a glorious day on this hidden gem, dodging the rain showers and eating delicious seafood in the Boathouse Ulva. And it was honestly some of the most delicious food we have ever had.
Over the sea to Ulva
Despite the stormy clouds gathering overhead, we tackled the rough single-track road around the north of the island, arriving at the Ulva ferry port just in time for the heavens to open.
The boat’s captain – the most sublimely styled fisherman I’ve ever seen - chivalrously helped us aboard as the rain began to smash down in earnest. Soon we were crossing the narrow stretch of water and I couldn’t stop grinning whilst unsteadily trying to snap photos of the harbour in the distance.
Stepping ashore, completely drenched, we were greeted by the friendly lab who guards the jetty. The poor doggo was equally soaked but apparently completely happy, his love of head pats evident as he followed us to lunch.
The Boathouse, Ulva
Set on an atmospheric jetty, the unassuming Boathouse is true to its name and serves up seafood fresh from the family fishing boat. The star of the show at this unique Scottish eatery is absolutely the food. Which can be no easy feat, with the nearest shops more than two-hours across the island in Tobermory.
Nevertheless, the focus here is on home cooking, simple ingredients, and local produce that changes with the seasons. Who needs supermarkets when you have access to the sea and countryside?
The Boathouse menu
The Boathouse menu is seafood-laden, and our table was weighed with muscles, langoustines, mackerel and salmon belonging to the waters around us. Food here is freshly caught and utterly delicious. Whilst shellfish platters and buckets of langoustines may be simple, they are also perfect.
The bread is homemade (of course) in the tiny kitchen, crabs and prawns are creel-caught in Ulva’s waters, and the oysters grow on the island’s shores.
Order the Fisherman’s Catch sharing board for a selection of all the good things to eat. It’s the crowning glory of the menu and possibly the best seafood we’ve ever tasted. Our only complaint is that the table is too small to hold the enormous plate!
The décor is intimate and unpretentious, with exposed stone walls that make for a cosy wee place. The airy rooms of this whitewashed café are complete with views over the sea and lots of natural light even on a dreary Scottish day. When the sun does finally glint through dark skies, wooden benches on the restaurants harbour-side picnic area are the ideal place for alfresco eating, which our friends who ate outside in the sun only a few hours earlier can attest to!
It’s an incredibly relaxed and friendly place, and the perfect spot to muse over the possibility of escaping the city for island life.
What to see on Ulva
Of course, the Boathouse isn’t the only reason to visit Ulva. Though the island is small, there’s tons to see and do; if you’re looking for a mini-adventure it’s worth planning a day trip here from Mull.
The population of Ulva hovers around a mere five people, though changes dramatically in summer when as many as 4,000 tourists visit, from as far as Canada and Australia. And it’s easy to see why. They are drawn by the history of cleared village ruins, pristine sea views and abundant wildlife – Ulva is home to deer, seals, hen harriers and more than 500 types of native plants.
But this isn’t a place with a busy list of must-dos. Instead travel to Ulva if you appreciate wild places, nature, and exceptional seafood.
Here there are no roads, no cars, and the only way to explore the island is on foot or by bicycle. Bring your binoculars and spot swooping seabirds on the coastal cliffs; if you’re lucky you’ll spot puffins in the western waters. Or pull on your hiking boots and choose from one of Ulva’s numerous scenic trails.
When to visit Ulva & the Ulva Ferry
The only way to visit Ulva is by taking the traditional passenger boat from Mull, which is an incredible experience. There are no set times, simply hail the ferry from the shore. It is honestly one of the best experiences you can have in Scotland.
The boat runs in summer Monday to Friday between 9am and 5pm. And in the summer months of June till August you can also visit on a Sunday. The crossing only takes a few minutes and costs £6 return.
2021 Boathouse update
The Boathouse is reopening in 2021 under the new ownership of Brendan and Mark and we’re excited to see what the new menu will look like! Whilst we don’t have all the details, we do know the focus on home cooking and delicious eats. Check out the Boathouse on Instagram for updates, and let us know below if you’ve visited recently!
FOOD AND DRINK GUIDES FOR YOUR NEXT SCOTLAND TRIP
