A Complete Guide to Visiting Portree, Scotland
Planning a trip to the Isle of Skye and wondering what to do in Portree, Scotland? I’ve spent a week in Skye’s capital town and I’m sharing the best things to do in Portree, the best hotels, and where to eat.
By: Lesley Stewart | Updated March 2025
There are heaps of wonderful places to visit on the Isle of Skye, but vibrant Portree, Scotland, is easily one of the best.
This beautiful harbour town combines a quintessential island experience of white-washed cottages and big views with essential modern amenities. Both the island’s capital and largest town, Portree’s winding streets host a sprinkling of independent little shops, an abundance of boutique hotels, and cafes selling incredible food.
Yet, despite these modern-day luxuries, Portree is still a town of history.
This is especially true of the iconic harbour, with a past as colourful as the buildings. Views over the surrounding hills and mountains are a constant reminder that Skye’s untouched landscape is never far away - few places exist that are so pristine and wild.
But if you’re a first-time visitor to the coastal town, you’re likely wondering if Portree is a good place to stay, what else there is to do in Portree, which hotel is the best, and where to eat. Well, I help travellers, often from the US and Australia, plan Skye trips, so I know it can be overwhelming trying to figure it all out!
This Portree guide is here to help.
I’m a Highlands local, and I’ve visited Portree countless times, from road trips to weekend getaways. So I know exactly the iconic spots to see and the best eateries, and I have firm favourites when it comes to accommodation.
In this guide, I’ve included everything you need to plan the perfect stay or visit, including the best things to do in Portree, Scotland.
Planning a trip to Portree on Skye?
Our favourite boutique hotels:
Bosville Hotel: for the best harbour views.
Marmalade Hotel: for the best stylish stay.
Kinloch Lodge: for the best luxury hotel.
Taigh Scalpaigh B&B: for the best boutique B&B./
Or, read my full guide on Where to Stay in Portree For First Timers here!
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Helpful trip-planning guides:
If you want to make the most of your time on the island, read my Portree hotel guide, restaurant guide, Skye road trip itinerary, and Skye’s best places to eat. Or let me help you plan a truly exceptional Skye trip.
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Travel tip: The best way to explore Scotland is by driving yourself. We use Discover Cars for our rental cars in Scotland, choose full-coverage insurance, and opt for trusted companies like Hertz and Sixt. Book your car with Discover Cars here.
Is Portree, Scotland worth visiting?
If it’s your first time on the Isle of Skye and you want to explore some of the island’s most famous places, then Portree is absolutely worth visiting. Alongside Carbost, Uig, and Waternish, it's one of the most charming locales on Skye, with pretty corners to explore and glimpses of those breathtaking vistas you expect on this magical isle.
There are also easy but beautiful walking trails around the coastline, gorgeous little boutique stores, a cinema for rainy days, and really great places to eat.
What surprised me most - but is now one of the things I love the most about visiting Portree - is the town’s lively nightlife. Home to only a handful of bars, the cocktail and whisky scene here is, in a word, incredible.
Whether you’re seeking a dram, local craft beer, or chic negroni, you’ll find it amongst Portree’s vibrant pubs. Often set against a backdrop of live Scottish music and always served by friendly staff, it’s a unique, if underrated, scene that’s dangerously inviting.
Is Portee a good base for Skye?
While the coastal town is best known for its colourful harbour and the strip of pastel-hued facades around the perimeter is undeniably charming, the island’s capital is much more than a day trip.
In fact, Portree is an incredible base for the Isle of Skye. Its closeness to the island’s best and most popular landscapes on the nearby Trotternish Peninusula, alongside its boutique hotels and foodie treasures, make Portree the top pick for travellers seeking a stay on Skye with easy access to amenities and a vibrant atmosphere.
Getting to Portree / Syke
By car
If you’re driving (by far the easiest way to explore Skye), you have three options to reach Portree. Given its island location, which you choose will depend on where you are travelling from.
I cover all the options in this ‘routes to the Isle of Skye’ post and always recommend this incredible road trip loop. In summary:
Skye Bridge: a free road bridge via Eilean Donan Castle and town of Kyle of Lochalsh. Once on the island, the drive to Portree (45 minutes) is straightforward.
Mallaig-Armadale Ferry: takes around 45 minutes via the Glenfinnan Viaduct and coastal village Arisaig. It needs to be booked in advance and the timetable and number of sailings change between summer and winter. Once on the island, you’ll have a 1 hour drive to Portree from the ferry terminal in Armadale.
Glenelg-Skye Ferry: the lesser-travelled option, this traditional turntable ferry crosses the Kylerhea straits from remote Glenelg. It operates from April to October and involves a detour on the mainland. However, the unique experience is worth the effort.
By bus
Citylink Buses link Glasgow (6 hours) and Invernerss (3 hours) with Portree. Be sure to book your tickets in advance and bring lots of snacks! Note that there are no trains to Skye.
Taxis / local buses
Once on the island, those visiting without a car can use the local bus service or a private Portree taxi. Taxis offer private tours around the island and standard pick-up/drop-off taxi hire, which is especially helpful if you visit one of the island’s distilleries. I haven’t used a taxi yet, but these Portree taxi services have excellent reviews: Gus’s Taxis and Portree Taxis.
Best things to do in Portree, Scotland
Visit Portree harbour
A trip to Portree wouldn’t be complete without a visit (and photograph) of the iconic harbour. Originally developed in the 18th century as a fishing port (though the town itself is much older), the famous engineer Thomas Telford would later extend the harbour - his design is the one we still see today, complete with multi-coloured houses and cobblestone jetty.
Make sure to also walk down the hill to the pier and rocky bay, where the views of the sheltered water are quite special. It’s a really lovely place to eat lunch on a sunny day, with the boats bobbing on the loch and hills towering in the background.
The best way to see the pastel-hued terrace around the harbour is from a distance. The most popular view is found by walking through the town to Bosville Terrace, where you’ll find an excellent vantage point.
Visit Portree’s boutique shops
One of our favourite things to do in Portree is to visit the town’s small and charming stores. Each is a treasure chest of independent brands, lovely homeware, gifts, books, and cute trinkets, so expect to leave with a bag full of lovely goodies!
Here are the Portree shops you shouldn’t miss:
ÒR (the Grn) | The biggest ÒR store on our list, I adore this little shop and could have left with loads of goodies. A treasure trove of handpicked books, exquisite homewares, and beautiful crafts.
ÒR (Wentworth St) | The second and more compact ÒR specialises in beautiful, locally made jewellery, gifts, and trinkets.
Skyeskyns (the Grn) | A smaller branch of the iconic Skye store, visit for beautifully made sheepskins and leather, luxury wool and sheepskin homeware, clothing, and accessories. I could’ve easily bought the entire store, but settled on a cosy hot water bottle cover. After, enjoy a coffee on their outdoor terrace.
Home in the Highlands (Quay Brae) | En route to the harbour, Home is packed full of exquisite homeware brands. Find wonderful accessories and cosy home décor inside.
Carmina Gadelica Bookstore | Right on the high street, this bookshop has a great selection of Skye books and walking maps.
Isle of Skye Candle Co. | The renowned Skye Candle Co. HQ is located just outside the town. Choose from a beautifully curated range of Skye-inspired candles, travel books, and locally made homewares.
Walk the coastal path
Head to Portree's coastal path if you want an easy stroll with big views. There are two to choose from, in varying lengths, each offering glorious views over Portree Bay.
If you’re looking for a longer walk, choose the Scorrybreac Circuit on the north side of the bay. There are fantastic harbour views, with Raasay and Loch Portree acting as glorious backdrops further along the loop. I'd allow around two hours to complete the entire 3km circuit.
Although relatively short, there’s a steep uphill section and some muddy parts best tackled in sturdy trainers/boots. You’ll find the Scorrybreac map here.
However, if you’re looking for a shorter route and want to avoid the mud, head up The Lump. This little hill on the bay's south side only takes around 20 minutes to climb and has an easy path, but the views from the top are pretty special.
Take a Portree boat trip
Like any seaside town in Scotland, a boat trip is easily the best way to experience the Skye coastline. I’d advise you to take a boat trip from Portree Harbour, with a camera in hand and waterproofs at the ready!
It’s a unique way to see the islands’ iconic ridges and volcanic sea walls. Once out in Portree Bay, you will also have the opportunity to spot seals, dolphins, and sea eagles. If you can, it’s honestly worth carving out time for.
My top choice is Stardust, a local company offering a variety of group tours. They focus on wildlife and the Skye coastline. You can see the options and book here. For a luxury sailing, Seaflower tours include seafood lunches and prosecco at sunset. See options and book here.
Coffee at Birch
Coffee enthusiasts should make a beeline to Birch, a speciality coffee shop tucked away down an unassuming alley.
An independent café, Birch offers excellent Skye-roasted coffee, a friendly vibe, and the best sweet treats imaginable. The small but innovative brunch/lunch menu is equally delicious, and I make a point of devouring their delicious flat whites and cinnamon buns every time I’m on the island.
Eating or grabbing a coffee here is easily one of the best things in Portree, especially if you can nab a seat. Inside is compact and Birch us a popular spot, but the Scandi-aesethics and small-batch brews are worth queuing for!
And, if you need your Birch fix back on the mainland, you’ll find their sister cafe in big and bright Inverness.
Feast on Skye’s exceptional produce
After a day of exploring Portree or road-tripping around the island, I’m sure you’ll be ravenous - and Portree is the most fantastic place to sample the best of Scotland’s west coast produce.
Honestly, I love eating out in Portree. The quality of the seafood, fish, local meat, and produce from the island’s farms is beyond sensational, and there’s a vibrant, thriving foodie scene here. And so much choice, with restaurants catering to all tastes and budgets.
For dinner in Portree, I recommend Scorrybreac (for high-end seafood and foraged ingredients), Dulce & Brose (for relaxed Scottish cuisine), Chargrill (for stylish but relaxed steak and grill), and Gasta Port Righ (for super delicious pizza).
If you’re looking for inspiration, read my guide to the best eateries in Portree.
Indulge in a nightcap
After dinner, take your pick of the town’s best bars for a nightcap. One of those I fell in love with was the chic little bar in Scorrybreac (open to non-diners). I could’ve indulged in cocktails all night, and the choice of whisky was impressive.
Another after-dinner spot we love is the laidback and friendly Merchant Bar, which has a fantastic whisky selection, local beers, and gin. Fans of craft beer and live music should make a beeline for The Isles Inn, where there’s frequently live Scottish music and a roaring fire.
Finally, for something trendy and chic, it has to be Caberfeidh. This dimly lit, moody, and mellow bar brings a speakeasy vibe, and the cocktail menu is wonderfully eclectic.
Catch a movie
One of the best ways to spend a rainy afternoon in Portree? At the cinema. Run by the Isle of Skye Candle Co, Las Cinema focuses on screening independent movies, Scottish-made films, and the occasional blockbuster.
You can find out what’s on here, and, for the best night, grab an authentic wood-fired pizza from next door at Gasta Port Righ before catching a movie.
Go on an island road trip
Of course, the Isle of Skye is best known for its truly breathtaking landscapes, and the best way to explore the island is on a mini-road trip. As I’ve mentioned, Portree is an excellent base for exploring its most renowned sights and attractions, and you’ll find the most iconic within a 1-hour drive of Portree.
That said, and I can’t stress this enough, carefully planning your days out on Skye is essential.
This island is more extensive than you might think, and its topography of remote peninsulas and rural roads can surprise first-time visitors. We live nearby and spend a lot of time on the West Coast, and we help travellers with custom Skye itineraries; that is to say, we know a thing or two about getting around.
My top tip is to plan your Skye adventures in logical, peninsula-based loops. This should avoid crisscrossing the island, let you experience the most, and allow you to see the very best of Skye (including its hidden gems).
Our most requested Skye routes leaving from Portree include:
Trotternish Peninsula: Old Man of Storr, Kilt Rock, Leallt Falls, Fairy Glen, Quiraing, Museum of Island Life and Sligachan Old Bridge.
Minginish Peninsula: Carbost, Talisker Distillery, Fairy Pools, and Glenbrittle Beach.
Waternish Peninsula & Dunvegan: Dunvegan Castle, Coral Beach, Skyeskyns, Skíō Pottery, and The Stein Inn.
Duirnish Peninsula: Neist Point Lighthouse and viewpoints.
